Six-year old Susaï is fetching water near camp in a spring claimed as one of the sources of the Oxus, also known as Amu Darya, Central Asia’s largest river. It starts early, the jobs of a woman: water chore, making dough, taking care of fire all day, make 15/20 flat breads (average camp), collect dry dung whenever spare time, watch over kids, sew clothes, make blankets stuffed with wool, make more rope with camel hair, more cooking, make kurut (dry cheese) and place it on the roof, take the herd out, take it back in, milk the sheep and goats and yaks, drop everything and welcome passing guests at any moment, and always have huge quantity of chai ready. It rarely stops.